Unter den Linden

Our visit to Germany started and ended in Berlin, a city of 3.5 million. The city had a fascinating role in the Cold War as the most conspicuous example of East versus West. The wall is down now and the city has worked wonders to bring the former poverty and dilapidation of the east up to modern standards. Roads have been built. Buildings have been renovated and parks and monuments have been restored. The linden trees leading to the Brandenburg gate, originally planted in the 1600's and destroyed in WWII were replanted. The holocaust memorial sits on a busy corner that used to be a vacant lot adjacent to the wall in East Berlin. We saw all kinds of historic buildings and famous places. We took our pictures at Checkpoint Charlie. We saw the Reichstag and the buildings of the GDR, the dreaded East German secret police. We saw the building that had been the Ministry of Propaganda during the height of the Third Reich. The hooks that held the Nazi flags are still in the walls of the building.

As we strolled down Unter den Linden (literally, Under the Linden trees) we encountered a demonstration against Israel's action in Lebanon and the US support of Israel. The demonstrators were carrying signs accusing Bush of being the world's #1 terrorist. Some of them shouted anti-Israeli and anti-USA chants. Some of them waved Lebanese flags. Some of them waved their fists and looked very hateful. I held my children close and kept my eyes open.

I believe that Lebanon is not in complete control of Hezbollah. I believe that Hezbollah is being given safe harbor in Lebanon and that the Lebanese government would like to see Israel destroyed. I believe that there are Lebanese civilians who might also like to see Israel destroyed but much, much more... would just like to live peaceful lives and see their children grow.

The irony of standing on a street in Berlin, a city once nearly destroyed by an intolerant anti-semite and now, years later, rebuilding and trying to heal, watching people galvanize their intolerance for my country and her allies, was extremely powerful.

I wish for them, life and peace. They wish for me, death and loss. Wonder why we can't seem to get along?